From Fendi to Dolce & Gabbana, we bring you the FW21 trends to wear and own now.

A year on since the coronavirus first swept into Northern Italy, locking down parts of the country during Milan Fashion Week, we weren’t quite sure what to expect from the fashion capital known for its extravagance this time round. Remaining online only with very few small buying appointments and local editors on elite show guest lists, the catwalk collections for the first time in Milan, just like London, were co-ed. A welcoming place for Kim Jones to start his women’s ready-to-wear debut at Fendi, a first and second in Milan as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons released their second collaborative collection. Moving on from SS21’s more wearable stay-at-home pieces, for FW21, designers brought a shift of optimism and glamour to Milan, symbolising that times must move on. Bringing back Italian indulgence, showcasing the re-birth of fashion and a high-octane future to what’s to come.

Fendi

For Kim Jones’ debut ready-to-wear show, he carried on Silvia Fendi’s historic representation of her last solo show in SS21 by delving deep into the most meaningful moments of the Roman house. Mimicking the colour of Rome and the organic shades that dominated Fendi’s history, tonal neutrals were the core of his FW12 runway. Moving with the times, Kim Jones brought an ethical stance to the iconic Fendi furs, upcycling raw materials from previous pieces to create a new, fresh take on his first “Palette Cleanser” collection, whilst still giving the Fendi customer the option to buy into fur items. Opulent minimalism in classic natural shades quietly took on the spotlight in the form of oversized shirts, capes, woollen shorts and the iconic Fendi bodycon paired with snakeskin boots, oversized totes and upcycled fur — all in sumptuous shades of brown that we can’t get enough of. The new Fendi silhouette is what we have our eyes on for FW21, with a ’90s handkerchief hem floating freely around the body in a silk-satin wrap detailing – a new Kim Jones icon.

Prada

A shift to optimism for Prada, as Raf Simons takes on his second season at the helm alongside Miuccia Prada, saw classic fall staples such as outerwear and knits reworked into fresh styles. Inspired by the change in transformation and the fusion between themes and conventionally polo opposites, the collection demonstrated an apparent juxtaposition of the two designers’ styles. Puff-sleeved coats had a drop-shoulder and sequins were paired with chunky knits, while electric prints were contrasted with cool pastels, in an out of this world, space-age collection. Regenerated nylon came around for the second season but was sustainably matched with faux fur edging, bringing a sense of glamour to outerwear and demonstrating how times must move on. Some pieces were still representative of a life lounging at home as models were draped in knits and oversized cardigans in funky ’70s clashing prints. However much ease the duo brought, elegance and optimism were a crucial part of the collection, bringing back Mrs. Prada’s sparkle in the form of sequins and paillette dresses, worn under 1920s wrap-around stoles. A touch of sparkle is not just for dancing, but to be considered for all manners of outings and a welcomed glimpse of post-pandemic jaunts that we just cannot wait for.

Valentino

For Valentino’s second-ever show in Milan, Pierpaolo chose the historic Piccolo Teatro theatre to host his almost all black and white collection — paying tribute to the cultural venues that have been closed for so long and demonstrating to the world that the show must go on. Combining men’s and women’s lines saw a jump to a more masculine androgynous feel for womenswear, as more structured standout silhouettes replaced the usual romantic shapes that Valentino is so well known for. With a large focus on layering, different textured materials were intertwined into elements of suiting and military jackets, creating a uniform for today’s unexpected world. The classic white shirt was reimagined, layered under cut-out turtlenecks and logo capes with oversized masculine collars protruding over small feminine shoulders. In a sea of monochrome two head-to-toe golden looks stood out, covering knitwear and leather for a refreshing break from the otherwise moody palette. A collection tailored to a realistic colour spectrum of what we will actually want to wear post-pandemic, hitting the reset button on fashion and redefining dress codes. The finale looks did not disappoint, as we all breathed a sigh of relief when Valentino’s signature sheer chiffon dresses glided down the catwalk with delicate embroidery, feathers and tulle, representing a sign of hope for the future.